Smartfix

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Features

• Multi-mode fault finding tool: Current Meter and Digital Volt Meter (DVM).
• Convenient pocket size.
• Modern water resistant and impact resistant case.
• Large easy to read LCD display.
• Long life battery - up to 3 years.
• Auto ON/OFF. Activated when fence pulse is detected.
• Switch to change between DVM and Current Meter modes.
• Retractable voltage probe for reading voltage on energizers and other hard to reach areas.
• Micro-chip technology that enables low voltage operation.
• Detachable earth lead.
• All parts fully replaceable.
• Low battery indication.
• When used as a DVM: can be used to measure voltage on all energizer types, measures up to 15KV; use without earth lead for everyday fence voltage reading (earth lead will give more precise readings, particularly for measuring earth voltage.); retractable probe allows easy access to energizer terminals, cut-out switches and other difficult to reach areas.
• When used as a Current Meter: large arrows makes for easy fault finding by showing direction of fault; digital display of current (A) makes for easy detection of faults; bar graph indicating voltage while in current meter mode; cordless operation.

Choosing the Right Energizer/Fence Charger

Once you have decided what type of electric fence you want for your property, you will need an energizer also known as a fence charger to power it. The correct energizer size for your property is determined by the type of animal to be fenced, distance of fence to be powered and the number of wires in the fence.

There are two types of energizers:

• Mains powered - these are energizer units which are plugged into a mains power supply.
• Battery/Solar powered - these are energizer units which can be left out in your paddock and require a battery to run them. Two batteries can be rotated on a regular basis or a solar panel can be an effective means of continuously charging your battery.

Building Your Electric Fence

In 1938, the first electric fence was developed in New Zealand by Gallagher. Since that time, electric fencing systems have made farm and ranch life easier. Today, both permanent and portable electric fencing products are used all over the world.

Basics of Electric Fencing

Electric fencing is ideal for grazing or pasture management by containing animals on a selected area of pasture or crop. It also may be used to protect gardens and landscapes from animal damage.

Permanent electric fencing is economical, easy to install and easy to maintain. Temporary electric fencing is an effective temporary barrier for short-term animal control and rotational grazing.

Electric Fencing is...

• Safe: Animals remember the short, sharp but safe shock and develop respect for the fence.
• Easy to install: An electric fence takes less than half the time to build compared to traditional fence systems.
• Durable: A non-electrified fence experiences constant wear and tear under stock pressure. Because your animals learn to avoid an electrified fence, your fence will last longer and remain in good condition.
• Economical: Electric fences cost less than 50% of traditional non-electric 

Grounding (a.k.a. earthing) is perhaps the most neglected component of many fence systems. We recommend three ground rods, 6’ deep and spaced 10’ apart are the minimum recommendation. Never attach copper to steel. Electrolysis can occur and result in corrosion which weakens shocking power. Use galvanized ground wire and grounding rods to avoid this problem.

Consider that most energizers use galvanized or stainless steel terminals – not copper. Think of your ground system as an antenna that gathers electricity in order to deliver the shock to the animal. Modern satellite receivers can tune in to more television channels than the “rabbit ear” antennas of the past. A hose clamp holding a piece of copper wire to a rusty t-post has been the weakest link of many electric fence systems.

We are having a Farm and Fence Photo Contest for the month of February. Please Email us your photos of your farm, animals, fence or anything related to the farm lifestyle from now until the end of February. We will post your pics on our facebook page, send as many as you like. Selected winner of best photo will recieve a Gallagher Baseball Cap.

We are Valley Farm Supply and we were established in 2004 as a source for quality farm supplies. We offer Gallagher fence products to professional farmers, ranchers as well as hobby farmers. Valley Farm Supply is the largest gallagher dealer in the Northeastern, U.S.A. , which means we can pass along savings to you.

We are a direct source for your Gallagher livestock electric fence needs. We also handle other brands such as Speedrite electric fence products, Parmak electric fence chargers, Stafix electric fence, Cyclops fence chargers, Patriot electric fence chargers and fencing items. We sell electric fence chargers, solar chargers battery chargers, energizers, wire, netting, fence insulators, hardware, poliwire, politape, hi tensile wire, wildlife fence, horse fence, gates, electric fence tools, strainers, polirope, equibraid, reels, fence testers, grounding parts, solar panels, fencing materials, seed, equine items and farm supplies. Please ask if we can supply your farm or ranch with the things you need to be successful.

Cattle producers across Arkansas faced many challenges during the extreme drought of 2012. Luckily, grazing management strategies helped farmers like Randolph County’s Dale Courtney alleviate the drought’s effects. With the assistance of USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service, Courtney developed and implemented a conservation plan that included grazing management strategies, which helped to protect his operation from the worst of the drought and make it more efficient. Following the conservation plan, he added electric fence and pipeline to funnel water to new tire tank watering facilities in each of his pastures. Courtney also created several new pastures to allow him to move his cattle around more frequently. He implemented prescribed grazing, to make sure a minimum amount of plant cover was maintained at all times to protect the soil from erosion and compaction—this improves the quality of the forage by giving it time to recover before it’s grazed again. Prescribed grazing also improves water quality by preventing soil from eroding into the water supply. By relying on prescribed grazing, Courtney was able to avoid the cost of supplemental forage like hay, which—while never cheap—has become more expensive due to the drought.“With this system, I can go until January or February without feeding hay,” Courtney explains. He was also able to stockpile some of his cool season forages for use in the fall and early winter, saving even more money. Courtney’s cattle are provided water by fenced ponds that use a gravity flow system to supply multiple tire tank watering facilities. This saves him from having to use electricity to pump the water to the different pastures.“Mr. Courtney is an innovator; he’s a producer you can go to with new practices and ideas,” says NRCS District Conservationist Adam Eades. Courtney uses legumes, prescribed grazing and nutrient management to eliminate the need for commercial fertilizer. Cover crops like legumes can prevent erosion, improve the availability of soil water and supply nutrients like nitrogen. Legumes convert nitrogen gas in the atmosphere into soil nitrogen that plants can use, meaning manure or commercial fertilizer may be needed in smaller quantities or not at all. Working with NRCS, Courtney’s conservation plan helped get him through the drought, and his operation continues to be successful.

High-tensile electric fences last for a long time, are relatively easy to construct, and cost less than other types of fencing. Whereas cattle can often be controlled with 1 or 2 strands of electric wire, sheep require multiple strands, not so much to keep them in, but to keep potential predators out.

Five, six or seven strands of 12 ½ gauge high-tensile wire is common for sheep fences. The bottom wires of the fence are more closely spaced than the top wires. Wire spacings of approximately 6, 5, 5, 8 and 10 inches are typical. In areas where there is relatively even rainfall and some green vegetation most of the year, it is recommended that all wires be hot.

Ground return wires are recommended where there is low rainfall, stony and dry soil conditions, or where the ground is frequently frozen or snow covered. Switches can be installed so that wires can be turned off if the situation warrants. For example, it is useful to put a switch on the wire closest to the ground, so that it can be turned off if there is too much vegetation on the fence line.

 

High-tensile fences are made with smooth wire that is pulled to an initial tension of 250 pounds. They require strong corners and end braces to achieve adequate tension. The wire is held on fence posts with staples. These staples are driven at a slight angle off of vertical so the slash cut points steer the staple into different grains of the wood. The staples are not driven tight against the wire, but instead allow freedom for the wire to move during tensioning, temperature changes, or livestock pressure.

Grounding
Poor grounding is the leading cause of electric fence failures. An electric fence must be properly grounded so that the pulse can complete its circuit and give the animal an effective shock. It is important to follow manufacturer's instructions for grounding electric fences. A minimum of three ground rods should be used for each energizer. It is estimated that 80% of electric fences in the U.S. are improperly grounded. A voltmeter is an inexpensive tool that measures the charge the fence delivers and can be used to trouble shoot electric fence problems.

The charger
The charger (or energizer) is the "heart" of the electric fence system. It converts main or battery power into a high voltage pulse or "shock" as felt by the animal when it touches the fence. In the past, electric fence chargers shorted out easily. Today's chargers are low impedance, meaning they are designed to effectively shock though vegetation and other foreign materials touching the fence.

A 4,000 volt charger is usually sufficient for sheep. The number of joules needed depends on the length of the fence, the number of electrified wires and the severity of conditions. A joule is the amount of energy released per pulse. As a general rule, 1 joule will power 6 miles of single fence wire; 4.5 joules is usually adequate for 20 to 50 acres. Lightning strikes can damage energizers. Surge protectors and lightening arrestors are recommended to minimize energizer damage.

High tensile electric fencing requires periodic upkeep. Fence wires should be kept properly tensioned. Weeds and brush should be cleared from the fence line by spraying or mowing.

It is important to note that an electric fence much more of a psychological barrier rather than a physical one. Sheep and lambs must be trained to respect electric fence. Once trained, they will usually respect the fence even if it is off for any reason.

   

 

There are a number of reasons for reduced voltage on the fence line.

• Vegetation growth
• Broken wires
• Corrosion
• Poor grounding
• Bad connections
• Poor insulation
• Increasing the length of fence
• TOOLS REQUIRED

The most important piece of equipment required to check for faults is the GALLAGHER Digital Voltmeter. With the GALLAGHER SMARTFIX voltmeter you can pinpoint faults accurately.

Also:

• Wire strainers
• Pliers
• Adjustable wrench
• Joint clamps

FAULTS TO LOOK OUT FOR

• Is the energizer switched on?
  Is the leadout wire connected to the energizer and the fenceline? · Is there a break in the leadout?
• Is the earth wire connected to the energizer and earth rods?
• Is there a break in the earthwire?
• Are all the cutout switches turned on?
• Is there a dead short on the fenceline?
• Are there any faulty or broken insulators?
• Use the fault finding chart below to help you locate faults.

Always check the voltage at the energizer First.

To check if the energizer is faulty, disconnect both the leadout and the ground wires and test the energizer without any load. If the energizer is reading below the manufacturer's specification there could be a fault with the energizer.

If the energizer is reading normal then:

• Check the Ground System before checking the fenceline.
• Refer to the section on grounding in ENERGIZER INSTALLATION.
• If no fault is discovered with either the energizer or the ground system, then check the fenceline.
• The use of Gallagher Cut Out Switches makes the job of finding faults easier as different sections of the fence can be isolated.
• When the area of fence which is at fault is switched off, the voltage on the remainder of the fence will rise.
• Once you have isolated the section of fence at fault, move along the fenceline and take voltage readings every 330ft.
• The readings will continue to drop until you reach, or pass the fault. After the Fault, the readings should remain constant. (Remember there may be more than one fault)

INDUCTION
A phenomenon known as induction is common with electric fences. This is the transfer of electricity from an electrified wire to a non electrified wire without the wires physically touching each other. This is often mistakenly blamed on insulator leakage. This phenomenon is also more common in areas where the air is damp such as in conditions of fog.

As this phenomenon is a quirk of nature it cannot be stopped from occurring. However, to avoid receiving shocks caused by induction on non electrified fences and gates etc. you can "ground out" the offending fence by connecting a ground wire to all wires on the non electrified fence. Push the end of this wire into the ground as far as possible and this will send all the offending voltage into the ground.

 

NOTE: Induction has very little effect on the voltage on the electrified fence.

RADIO INTERFERENCE

All GALLAGHER energizers comply with the usual regulations, but problems can occur for various reasons, particularly in areas with poor radio reception. These are usually noticed when an audible "click" is heard on the radio and coincides with the pulsing of the energizer.

To reduce or eliminate the problem, look for faults in the following areas:

• The energizer earth must be very good and should be at least 33ft away from any other ground. No part of the energizer ground system should come into contact with any buildings.
• Avoid having any leadout wires or fencelines running parallel to telephone or power wires.
• Check for any fence faults such as: broken insulators, poor connections and joints, any shorting caused by broken wires etc. Also check that cut out switches are not arcing.
• Check that no underground cable has been damaged and is shorting out.
• Walking the fencelines with a portable radio tuned off the station and on high volume is a quick and easy way to locate any electrical leakage.

Start

Check the voltage reading at the energizer

Is the voltage lower than normal?

Yes

Is the voltage normal?

Yes

Has the fenceline been extended or added onto?

Yes

Check that the ground voltage is not greater than 300 volts (see ENERGIZER INSTALLATION)

Yes

A larger energizer may be required but check the fenceline first
Upgrade your ground system (see ENERGIZER INSTALLATION)

Check the fenceline for possible shorting at:

Leadouts

Joints

Insulators

Vegetation growth

Accidental shorting